Mischievous Meanderings

apologies!

2010-07-15T20:42:00.001+02:00

It seems that my email account was hacked today and a SPAM message was sent.

Kindly note that I now primarily use a gmail address and update my contact information as listed below.

All the best,

Eileen

ekeribar@gmail.com

+34 661 255 942 (Spain Mobile)

+44 (0) 20 7193 4120 (Europe VOIP)
+1 917 568 0023 (USA Mobile - only when traveling in the US)

+1 312 239 0801 (USA VOIP)

ekeribar (Skype)

www.eileenkeribar.com

Posted via email from misschief's posterous

apologies!

2010-07-15T20:21:00.001+02:00

It seems that my email account was hacked today and a SPAM message was sent.

Kindly note that I now primarily use a gmail address and replace my contact information as listed below.

All the best,

Eileen

ekeribar@gmail.com

+34 661 255 942 (Spain Mobile)

+44 (0) 20 7193 4120 (Europe VOIP)
+1 917 568 0023 (USA Mobile - only when traveling in the US)

+1 312 239 0801 (USA VOIP)

ekeribar (Skype)

www.eileenkeribar.com

photos MALLORCA

2009-05-20T19:45:00.002+02:00

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The Magnificent Mallorca

2009-05-20T19:23:00.002+02:00

Continuing in my quest to conquer all of the gorgeous islands Spain has to offer, my friend Grace and I, along with Lola, hopped down to Mallorca for a long weekend.

After Tenerife, Mallorca appeared to be tame at first, but exploring closer led to the discovery of some fantastic off the beaten path gems.

We again wanted to steer clear of big cities, in this case Palma de Mallorca, in order to truly unwind. Palma

The Incredible Tenerife

2009-03-31T13:08:00.027+02:00

About 1100 kilometers off the coast of Morocco is one amazing pile of volcanic rock...a little place I like to call my retirement plan.

Tenerife is, for lack of any better word, an absolutely stunning island. The sheer scale of it is almost impossible to impart - it's majestic coastlines of jagged volcanic formations, sheer drops, lush greenery, dark beaches and crystal waters are even hard to grasp in person.

In many respects I have never experienced a place of such extremes. Dramatic changes happen throughout the day - not just from day to night. Thick clouds impossible to drive through give way to crisp skies with profound views. As you go from the north to the south, breezy and misty mornings blossom into arid afternoons with blistering sunshine. Winds lash on beaches in the south to the delight of kiteboards while beachgoers revel in tranquil seaside picnics in the north.

Transitions abound as you explore the island by car...As you rise to the top of Teide, the main peak at 1700 meters above sea water, vegetation is bright, low and colorful, then thick tall and green, until it becomes sparce then absolutely non existent.

We started by driving from the north airport along the northern coast, passing the major city of San Juan, then weaving along the coast in and out of picturesque little towns like Guarachico...until we reached the western most tip, the Lighthouse at Teno. Looking to the south down the coast, we reveled in Los Gigantes, sheer, steep cliffs that tumble into the sea at a most alarming incline.

Wanting to avoid the major cities, especially the touristy ones to the south, we decided to stay in a hotel rural, hotels which are old collections of stone houses converted into hotels. We found a lovely place twenty minutes from San Juan, in Realejos in the foothills of Teide. The dark and muted hillside was tranquil throughout the day and dead silent at night.

The following day we decided to drive along the western coast, passing quickly through Gigantes and Playa San Juan, overwrought with bright red Brits, and found (rather lost, then found) our way to a tiny fishing village called Puertito with one seaside restaurant and a lovely little beach. After an early evening dip, we decided to continue the loop and drove the full circle, following the southern coastline, then heading back north once we reached the island's largest city, Santa Cruz de Tenerife.

I was blown away by the size of Santa Cruz. A veritable urban city built up on a wild island in the middle of the Atlantic, its population is almost 600.000! One highlight to me is that Santa Cruz plays host to some really lovely arts and cultural centers. Most famous is Calatrava's Music Hall on the water in center downtown. A recent addition is Herzog & de Meuron's Tenerife Art Museum and one discovery I loved was El Tanque, a gutted and renovated water holding tank that is now used as a multi-use arts and performance space.

The highlight of our third day was visiting the peak of Mount Teide. The drive was incredible. Winding up the mountain, the landscape transformed again and again, alpine forsts gave way to pine forests then bushes and brush until we arrived at an area that felt practically lunar. We hopped the cable car and found our way 3700 meters above sea level, at Spain's highest point. One undoubtedly feels the elevation as a short walk left us breathless...both from altitude and the magnificent vantage point.

The last day was, despite all of my reservations due to weather and time to fit everything in, my absolute favorite experience in Tenerife. Since we had covered north, west and south sides, we drove due east to get to Tenerife's easternmost point. We drove along a major highway, then a two lane road, which gave way to a one lane shared road that wound along a high ridge with sharp drops on either side down to the sea, and ultimately terminated in a little town (really more a collection of houses and one restaurant and convenience store, tucked far, far away from its nearest neighbors) whose name escapes me and is not on any map.

From there one hikes 4,5 kilometers down into the valley, past abandoned houses, wrapping around the cliffside, until you come all the way down to the sea and encounter a small collection of houses. We enjoyed a picnic on the dark black beach, in complete seclusion until early afternoon when a few more hikers made their way down. Surprisingly enough, the hike back up was half as long as the hike down! I had forgotten how much more careful one has to be when descending.

Lola was an absolute trooper, she flew down the trail, periodically peeking back around corners pleading us to 'hurry up!', she had a standoff with a goat, definitely something a four legged beast she's never encountered before, and as the sun came out on the way back to the car she continued to pick her way around rocks and up the steep hills, and made the full roundtrip with the exception of one little area, which was more due to my concern than her abilities. Call me a worrisome mother!

We rounded out the afternoon by descending yet another set of hairpin turns all the way down to San Andres, and had one more relaxing stretch on Playa Teresitas before brushing off the sand and sadly making our way to Santa Cruz and the airport for the evening flight home.

Despite not having erupted for 100 years, Teide is considered to be quite unstable. It is rumored that bulge is slowly forming on the north, not due to lava, but due to an internal collapse. True extremists claim that Teide will ultimately collapse into the ocean, causing a tsunami large enough to wipe out New York City thousands of kilometers away. That said, I definitely hope that doesn't happen in my lifetime, as I will undoubtedly return to this enchanting island to unwind and lose myself once again soon.

photos TENERIFE

2009-03-31T13:08:00.026+02:00

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photos PORTO

2009-03-12T13:07:00.002+01:00

Splash! Porto

2009-03-12T12:07:00.023+01:00

Nearly two years living in Madrid, and having never visited my neighbor Portugal, I was extremely pleased to be invited to the Hi:Design EMEA conference in Porto this spring.

Hi:Design EMEA Conference

The conference is built around an extremely effective (while exhausting!) format. Hotel operators and architects from throughout Europe are invited and face-to-face meetings are set up with fabricators and vendors that design everything from furniture and lighting to carpets and wallcoverings.

My colleague and I met with over 30 vendors in the course of two days, something akin to professional speed dating. It's a great conference, however, and we probably made a year's worth of contacts in a mere 48 hours, not to mention a couple friendships that will probably last a lifetime! It was a well balanced weekend of work, discovery and relaxation in a very unique city.

Tour of Porto
Casa da Música

We arrived in 40 minutes, one of the shortest flights I've taken in a long while. We made it just in time to join the tour arranged by the conference and piled into a bus filled with cheery design folks and headed to our first destination, Rem Koolhaas' Casa da Música, Porto's concert hall.

In complete contrast to its surroundings, this modern building sits like a chiseled gem on Avenida da Boavista, a main thoroughfare running through Porto. We were given a guided tour through its various rooms and marveled in the painstaking attention paid to acoustic challenges. The main concert hall is surrounded by a double wall of curved glass to serve as a buffer and to absorb all noise. An effective and also aesthetically graceful solution. Though the orchestra was practicing we couldn't hear them at all while we were in the various side rooms.

Everything from the graphics of the brochure to the custom designed chairs throughout the public areas carried the continuity of the building's form. The programming is rich and varied, and various design decisions to utilize cost effective and low-maintenance materials have allowed them to keep prices to a very miniumum - citizens of Porto can enjoy shows there for as low as five or ten euros!

Old Porto

We hopped in our bus and drove through old Porto, the city's traditional center, and down towards the Duoro, the river that runs along the city and ends in the Atlantic Ocean. Old Porto boasts stunning architecture and intricately detailed buildings. Most unique to Portugal is the prevalent use of azulejos, or painted tiles, to clad the buildings. Both modern and old buildings stand out with beautifully detailed tile work, sometimes with frescos, sometimes three-dimentional and sometimes with modern geometric patterns.

Compared to the pristinely restored Madrid, Porto has a very run-down feel about it. According to our tour guide, approximately 40,000 people have left their residences in Old Porto, and one can't help but feel a true sense of an abandoned city. The government is slowly buying up empty properties and restoring them to their previous glory in the hopes to see a resurgence in the residential market at the city's center. We saw many for sale signs hanging throughout the center on truly stunning properties, even employing some great marketing tactics like a naked mannequin to draw attention. I really can't imagine this gem of a city remaining so quiet and empty!

Boat Tour and Port Tasting

For the next leg of our tour we enjoyed the views back towards the city afforded from the city´s river, the Duoro. We went under the city's six bridges, one designed by the architect of the Eiffel Tower, and watched as the tightly packed apartments with laundry hanging outside gracefully floated by.

We got off on the other side and walked up the hill towards the Calem Port Wine lodge. No longer officially in Porto, all of the Port lodges are concentrated in an area called Gaia. We were given a tour and learned about the various types of port, the vintages, mixes, pink and white...then enjoyed a tasting. Sufficiently warmed up by our port, we headed back to the hotel to kickoff the conference.

Night in Porto

Since we were left to our own devices for dinner plans on our second night, the 'cool kids' (or so we fancied ourselves!) organized a big group dinner at a nearby restaurant. A group of about 20 Americans, Londoners, Israelis, Swedes and more, we were an eclectic crew. They seated us in a side room next to another large group dinner...and before we knew it we were being shuuuushhed from across the room.

In an instant, we found ourselves engaged in a full out war - it's a sing-off! We dazzled them with everything from Grease and 80's classics to a mystefying rendition of head, shoulders, knees and toes. And yes, the night definitely ended with both tables doing the conga through the restaurant- I'm still not sure how we accomplished it, but we had successfully created a wedding reception without either a bride or groom. Or a wedding DJ for that matter.

After a long Saturday of meetings which led straight into the closing dinner on a boat in the Duoro, a local designer from Madeira gathered us up and took us out for a night on the town in center Porto. We found ourselves on a lively one-block street called Rua da Galeria de Paris. It was lined with high-ceiling spaces repurposed into retail, restaurants and bars.

At midnight the street was already packed as people waited for restaurants to close dinner service and open to the bar crowd. Each spot was lovelier than the last, with all of the original columns and millwork in tact. We ended up at what was once an old bookstore, a great bar with a lounge area in front and a dancefloor in back. Sufficiently packed with friendly and hip locals, we danced the night away to a jukebox range of music with a strong leaning towards 90s music, chatted with the locals, and eventually made our way back to the hotel to collapse after a very full and long day.

I went to bed happy and fulfilled that night. It is weekends like these where I realize how blessed I really am and all of the opportunities my job has afforded me to see new places, meet a kaleidoscopic range of personalities, make real connections, and to enjoy some of the most random and pleasing moments I'd have never imagined or been able to plan.

Wandering on Sunday

Since my colleague and I had the advantage of being so close to home, we opted to take a later flight back on Sunday and did some casual exploration of Porto's most famous landmarks...we took a long walk through winding corners of Old Porto, visited the train station and the remarkable San Francisco cathedral, and ended our afternoon with a lovely lunch on the Duoro where I enjoyed one last Splash, my new favorite cocktail. Portugal's own version of the shandy or tinto de verano, a Splash is a tasty combination of tonic and dry white port. Fresh and slightly sweet, suffice it to say I'll be enjoying a lot of these this summer!

It is said that the Portuguese play in Lisbon and work in Porto. After a weekend in Porto, I can at the very least speak to the second half of that stereotype. Not an overtly electified city, Porto has a quiet confidence and easygoing spirit that is very warm while decidedly staid. The people exude an extreme friendliness and outgoing nature that I understand to be very common to the Portuguese in general, and I felt welcomed and unjudged in every exchange I had. Thanks to this little taste, I rather look forward to expanding of my adventures in Portugal.

Next up? Lisbon and Madeira are very high on my list!

photos COSTA RICA

2009-02-16T21:55:00.001+01:00

Pura Vida!

2009-02-16T21:53:00.031+01:00

The countdown to a long overdue trip to Costa Rica began back in August 2008 as I eagerly tore open a gorgeous wedding invitation from two very special friends from New York.

I was finally due for some quality time with a group of some of my closest friends. Away from responsibilities, city life, and stress, I don't think any of us could have imagined a more perfect destination to revel in one another's company.

After a brief stopover in the States (hello, goodbye!) I hopped my second plane overflowing with anticipation...destination: Liberia.

I truly think that there is nothing quite as invigorating and life-affirming as that first breath of air that you take when you arrive to a new place. Whether the pollution of Mumbai or the crisp mountain air of Denver, you know immediately when you are on the precipice of something new.

Stepping off the plane, surrounded by the darkness of the Costa Rican countryside, I was hit with a breeze filled with sweet odors that had me bristling with excitement of my unknown adventures ahead.

As luck would have it, I landed at the same time as another plane carrying two couples from New York. Jetlagged and giddy, I followed them through twisting roads and the dark night down the coast towards Tamarindo.

Tamarindo

Second only to the first breath of air in a new place is the feeling of waking up to a new day in a place you arrived to in the dark of night. Despite my 24-hour day of travel, jetlag got me up in time for a beautiful sunrise walk on Tamarindo's long and sprawling beach.

Fully taking in my new surroundings, I basked in two long walks, a yoga session, a swim, and two breakfasts until I was finally reunited with our friends as people slowly made their way out of bed and down to the beach.

Affectionately known as Tamagringo by the locals, Tamarindo may have its touristy elements but I found it to be so small and quaint that it wasn't even close to the Cancun circus I had anticipated. The hotel was beautifully appointed, with lush grounds and friendly staff, and despite being filled with tourists, was surprisingly quiet and peaceful.

The wedding was set against the backdrop of the beach and a stunning sunset, one of many to come. Sprinkled with Indian overtones, the couple was married under a white canopy billowing in the breeze as we all reveled in the smoke, flower petals, sitar music and boldly colored saris around us.

As the night grew dark we were entertained by amazing fire dancers who eventually led our way to dinner - a tantalizing assortment of Costa Rica's fresh vegetables, fruits and seafood. We danced like there was no tomorrow to classics then made our way down the beach to Mama's Deli, a restaurant which turns into a nightclub.

With the waves lashing the shore far away in low tide, and the beats of our favorite New York DJ's flowing, we danced and cuddled the night away as the full moon set over the ocean...a night for the books and a most amazing beginning to our week ahead.

Playa del Coco

Fifteen of us eventually made our way up to Playa del Coco where we had arranged to stay in Sleepy Hollow, a cliffside villa overlooking the bay. From our amazing vantage point, we shared our lives, ate great meals, partied and took off on adventures throughout the Guanacaste region for the next six days...

The After After After party

Still riding the high from the ceremony and celebrations, Monday we hosted an after-after-after party at the house for those who remained in the area. The night was a resounding success, combining old friends and new, amazing music, another stunning sunset, and the peaceful feeling of freedom that comes with a true lack of agenda in a beautiful tropical setting surrounded by amazing people.

Playa de las Avellanas

After straggling out of bed early the next day, four of us headed back down the coast to drop off the sound equipment in Tamarindo, then continued south, eventually turning off onto a long gravel road with no end in sight, until we arrived at Playa de las Avellanas. Pura Vida at last.

I've heard the expression associated with Costa Rica before. But only a few relaxing days into my trip was I finally able to internalize the local credo.

*Pura Vida is a beach side cafe serving up bright dishes of the freshest fruits and vegetables you've had in ages.

*Pura Vida is lazily swinging in a hammock until the sound of the waves and the warm sun peeking through palm trees lulls you to sleep.

*Pura Vida is walking along a rugged coast, hiding in the trees from the incoming tide, and feeling nature's power surrounding you.

*Pura Vida is wishing for a coconut, whack! having one cut down for you, and savoring in its fresh water and pulp.

*Pura Vida is finding the best log in the world, smooth from waves, sitting on it with a great friend and laughing together as the waves try to pull you off into the ocean.

*Pura Vida is hunting for a pig named Lola who is either napping in the shade or cooling off in the water, depending on the time of day.

*Pura Vida is watching a one and a half year old soulfully strum a guitar and belt out made up lyrics on a sunsoaked beach.

*Pura Vida is watching quietly as the day winds down, reflecting on the sun set, surrounded by people all quietly internalizing their own Pura Vida.

Snorkeling around Papagayo Peninsula

On Thursday we rented snorkel equipment and piled into two boats for a day of sun, sea and barbecue on the Papagayo Peninsula. We jetted along the coast and stopped twice to snorkel with our guides helping us find the best fish. After chasing colorful fish and manta rays we ended up on a beach in a small nearby cove where dorado tacos and other local delicacies awaited us. We explored caves, befriended the world's largest iguana, and napped in the sun before slowly making our way back home.

Playa Conchal

On our last day together we hopped our 4x4's and made our way south towards Playa Conchal.

After a drive on the beach and a little off-roading, we pulled up to a majestic white beach made up of crushed shells. As the tide pulled in we gathered into a little round clearing in the trees, enjoyed a picnic and savored in cool refreshing dips in the ocean.

All smiles, it was a perfect way to round out the perfect week.

Shouts to the ETERNAL BLISS CREW! You warmed my heart and soul and gave me all the reason in the world to believe that no matter where my travels and life take me, I always have the love of very special people indeed...

ps...thanks to whomever took the stunning picture of our own DJ Stadenco rocking the sunset at our villa!!

photos CHICAGO & NEW YORK

2009-01-08T21:29:00.000+01:00

Rockwell Group in Business Week

2008-11-30T15:13:00.012+01:00

In case you’re interested in what my company is up to these days…we have a couple features in Business Week this month.

With projects being placed on hold left and right and project leads drying up, it’s nice to step back and take a positive look at where I work and remember the ‘big picture'

While this is about the company as a whole, I’m happy to say that our little Madrid office looks to be finishing out the year relatively strong and we’re working very hard to make 2009 a promising one, despite the economic challenges a lot of clients are facing at the moment.

Also in the realm of work, I feel obliged to mention that we have actually been working on the renovation of the Taj Hotel in Mumbai since May. We haven’t heard from our clients yet but know that several are OK via news sources. It’s been harrowing to follow the events taking place there and to watch that amazing heritage building in flames.

::::EDIT:::: We have heard from our clients and they are more intent than ever to begin work on restoring the full glory of the Taj and to beginning work immediately. We are completely honored to be a part of the rebuilding and could not ask for a more meaningful project in times such as these.

I hope this gives you a little insight into the world of Rockwell Group!

Business Week Article
http://www.businessweek.com/magazine/content/08_48/b4110050131066.htm

photos PARIS & AMSTERDAM

2008-11-01T21:10:00.000+01:00

Paris and Amsterdam

2008-11-01T20:52:00.002+01:00

Paris

One thing that living in Spain has afforded me is the luxury of spending a day in Paris, almost as if it were a nearby neighborhood. With my dear friend Chris as my partner in crime for an adventurous European weekend, we arrived to a stunningly sunny and deliciously crisp Paris morning and headed straight to Montmartre to drop our things and delve headlong into some of our favorite Parisian neighborhoods.

Memories of freshly dressed and poised Parisiennes came flooding back as we popped over via Metro to grab lunch and peek into shops along rue Saint-Honoré. Colette was as always a pleasure to explore – the 900 euro YSL boots and the painful extrication from my iron grip notwithstanding – with its mixture of art, fashion, design objects and toys. The gallery featured an exhibition titled Off Off Bowery showcasing a collection of works by young artists, including some familiar pieces by neckface and Ryan McGinley.

One delicious outdoor nicoise salad later, we headed to Marais to admire charming art galleries and Paris boutique fashion at their finest. Suffice it to say I would be one poor woman if I hadn’t had the unfortunate luck of spending the majority of our time in the Marais on a conference call whilst browsing.

We had a quaint dinner with a fantastic array of friends, new and old, and after a nightcap back at the apartment rested up for the journey to Amsterdam.

Amsterdam

Another painfully civilized and fantastic feature of European travel is the accessibility of train travel. We spent a few quick hours watching as northern France, Antwerp, Brussels and the Netherlands flew past us and founds ourselves in center Amsterdam – yet another beautiful and sunny arrival.

We timed our trip to attend ADE – the annual Amsterdam Dance Event. A huge festival featuring a wide variety of DJs from around the world, the event takes over every venue in the city for four days. While there is significant attendance, the spread out nature of the event allows the venues to remain comfortably full while not inundated. As with most festivals, the hardest part is choosing which events to attend.

Probably my favorite party was at Paradiso for Trentemøller and the Danish group Lulu Rouge on our first night. Paradiso is an old theater featuring two mezzanine levels overlooking the dancefloor and stage. Some of the most amazing seats in the house were accessible to all and allowed for a lot of great vantage points and resting spots for tired legs. Lulu Rouge was the big surprise of the night, with a truly original sound and fantastically offbeat lead singer. A delicious mix of downtempo, dubby sounds, rumbling basslines and evocative vocals by Alice Carreri Pardeilhan, the end result is a moody and signature sound with true personality. A really great discovery.

Trentmøller really delivered on a high energy and eclectic set playing everything from banging techno to reggae, pop and drum and bass, there was plenty of room to dance and share in the energy with a dancefloor filled with smiling faces.

We spent the weekend with a perfect balance of great design and fashion shops such as Droog, Frozen Fountain, For our Friends, and SPRMRKT (my personal favorite for fashion), delicious meals at local cafes and design favorites like Nomads (drinks to die for) and Envy (delicious small plates), and of course the occasional stop to warm our toes and relax at laid-back coffeeshops.

One of my favorite features of Amsterdam is the seamlessness between private life and public life that comes from its scale and the openness of homes to the street. A walk at dusk affords intimate glimpses into private home lives and allows the quiet energy of the street to take on a new backdrop of families busily preparing dinner, couples sipping wine at a kitchen counter, or children racing around a living room, and I took great pleasure in the pastiche of those little vignettes of Dutch life.
Life in general takes on a rather peaceful yet collective spirit in Amsterdam.

Between the graceful intermingling of bicycle traffic, pedestrians and a seemingly small handful of cars and the at-home spirit of so many retailers and restaurateurs, one can’t help but feel as if you have joined a large family while visiting the city.

edit, April 2009: GOOD LUCK TO MY FRIEND CHRIS ON HIS MOVE TO AMSTERDAMMY!!!! xox

photos BERLIN

2008-10-20T23:59:00.001+02:00

Europa! Europa!

2008-10-20T19:30:00.000+02:00

Fall!

Time to dig out my long forgotten layers for a series of adventures across Europe.

12 hours in London
The adventures kicked off with a day trip to London. After landing at 9am we toured Leicester Square, the site of the project we were in town to interview for...the highly coveted W London. W is a brand we know well that has yet to make its London debut - suffice it to say we were very, very hungry for this project.

Leicester Square has an intriguing history of science and entertainment but these days it's something of a mini Times Square meets Chinatown. Not the poshest destination necessarily. It'll be very interesting to see what happens to the area once the hotel opens. Jestico+Wiles have come up with a clean, glass-veiled facade treatment that can go in one of two directions - either it will succumb to the chintzy glitz of the area or it will raise the bar with its colorful changing facade. Only time will tell.

I can tell you now that we lost the project to Concrete, of recent CitizenM fame, not to mention Supperclub, Envy, and a whole host of hot Amsterdam restaurants which I found myself frequenting the following weekend (unbeknownst to me that they were our competitors!) A worthy opponent and a totally different animal, I take my hats off to them for a hardy competition well fought.

Three Days in Berlin
Having never traveled in Germany, I was really excited to start my experiences off in Berlin. With at least six of my friends from New York having recently relocated there, I figured it had to be a pretty fantastic introduction to Germany.

My first shock was the scale. I found myself reminded of Chicago in many ways. The city itself is very spread out, with 'dead' areas between neighborhoods, and entirely lacking in the characteristic European density. There were beautiful parks throughout much of the city boasting all the fall colors one would expect in a forest, not in an urban city of this size, and at the same time hundreds of old warehouses and brick structures one can only surmise were once factories, now repurposed and happily coexisting with their natural surroundings.

It goes without saying that Berlin is an amazingly unique place in that it has been almost entirely rebuilt after the war. What struck me the most is how proudly and gracefully it carries its juxtapositions - the prime example being the combination of older, classically detailed buildings with striking modern architecture, which lends Berlin a lot of its charm and character.

I had five hours to explore, so I hit the streets immediately. I wandered through the Sony Center then by Hans Scharoun's Philharmonic...both of which were a stone's throw from my hotel. I then headed up the street to Eisenmann's Jewish memorial. Pictures truly do not do it justice. It's a contemplative and haunting installation that encourages exploration and interaction. A full city block in either direction, it commands a lot of attention and dauntingly lives up to its promise to memorialize an uncomfortable slice of German history.

I wandered over to the Reichstag, and after being discouraged by long lines headed north to the Hamburger Museum. Once an old railway station, it hosted some interesting avant garde artists. After a quick bite of sushi with my friend Grant, a fresh NYer-turned-Berliner, I headed out to cocktails in the TV tower to kick off the Design Hotels conference which would take place over the course of the next two days.

Design Hotels Conference
The conference itself featured several really interesting designers, characters and talents. Among my favorites were Marije VogelZang, a food designer from the Netherlands with a wholly unique perspective on design and materials (check out her portfolio!) and of course Chris Sanderson and Martin Raymond from the Future Laboratory, they are fantastic performers (moreso than presenters!) and it's a always a pleasure to hear how they are absorbing and synthesizing trends.

I befriended a Chicago native, Steven Burke, who has done some really interesting work ranging from collaborations with exclusive retailers such as Missoni to collaborations with a struggling wire sculptor in South Africa which yielded a fantastic line of furniture. It was also a real pleasure to meet the boys behind Friends With You, and to understand the hilarious, and in many ways poignant, road that paved the way to their colorful figurines that are featured in every design shop worth its salt these days.

The conference ended with a gala dinner with a menu prepared by a top Finnish chef. A cuisine I'm not particularly familiar with, I really delighted in the bright range of flavors that were completed by berries, horseradishes, amazing ryes and incredibly fresh seafood. I also should mention that after 10+ years as a vegetarian, the first course was so intriguing that I could not possibly refuse it. Yes, ladies and gentlemen, I can now say I've eaten reindeer heart sashimi. And it was...um...chewy.

Berlin Techno
I finished off the week in Berlin as any true clubber should, hitting the infamous techno dancefloors. As luck would have it, my NYC friends Camea Tim Tony and Grant were hosting a launch party for their label Clink at a fantastic venue called Arena. A bit off the beaten path, Arena is part of a larger complex of old warehouses now repurposed for events, art exhibitions, and general hipness. In the summer they have a floating pool on the river not unlike my all-time favorite NYC summer spot. Definitely something to return for!

After a few hours at Arena, I roped a couple of fellow conference attendees into hitting one more dancefloor and we made our way to Weekend. Famous for its rooftop (which was sadly no longer open as summer season had closed) Weekend is a full-on nightclub on the 15th floor of an otherwise entirely corporate office building. Berlin juxtaposition at its finest.

Thoroughly exhausted, I headed straight to the airport at 6am to catch a flight back to Madrid to meet my friend Chris who would be visiting for the week.

photos ISLAS BALEARES

2008-10-10T18:47:00.001+02:00

Las Islas Baleares

2008-10-10T01:25:00.006+02:00

Almost two years to the date, I finally found myself boarding a flight to return to Ibiza at last!

We arrived to an absolutely torrential downpour, the likes of which Ibiza has not seen in a long while from my understanding. I traversed streets that had turned to rivers and despite wearing 4" heels was still soaked up to the ankle. A very depressing welcome indeed.

Drenched and tired, we rested up Friday night for the weekend ahead, hoping and praying for a bit of sun, which we ended up receiving, in spades.

Formentera
After a quick, and per tradition, standing, breakfast of Pan con Tomate and a nice stiff and sweet cafe con leche, we rushed to catch the ferry to Formentera to spend our Saturday carelessly bouncing from beach to cliff and back again in our rented jeep.

As usual, Formentera's powerful vistas and tranquil energy refueled me in ways that no other place can. It's absolutely peaceful and gorgeous and there's nothing quite like driving through the stark roads flanked by date trees, coming over a hill, and being absolutely floored by the view ahead. Perfection! Undoubtedly one of my favorite places on earth.

Privilege & Pacha
Saturday night a friend of a friend was playing the didgeridoo alongside a local DJ at Privilege, so we spent a few hours there then closed the night at Pacha.

I had never been to Pacha Ibiza, and it truly is an impeccable venue. David Morales and Satoshi Tomiie rocked a very expat (read: British) crowd while beautiful dancers and performers rounded out a pretty calm first night on the dancefloor.

Las Salinas
Sunday we headed out to Las Salinas to enjoy Sa Trinxa. Fantastic.

Las Salinas is a kilometer long beach at the southeast tip of the island. Crowded with families on one end, the northernmost edge is home to Sa Trinxa, home of chilled out music, scantily clad sunbathers recovering from a night out at the clubs, and a shady and breezy chiringuita for drinks and everything ranging from fresh salads to roast chicken.

Sa Trinxa of course boasts great people watching. The chill Balearic beats were accompanied by a live sax player who came out every hour or so...by his last appearance before the sunset, the energy had risen and an impromptu dance party on the sand had begun to form. The perfect relaxing day, Sa Trinxa allows you to refuel then warm up for the night ahead.

We Love Sundays at Space
After changing and eating, we walked over to the legendary Space nightclub to catch the closing parties of We Love. We went straight to Discoteca for Jeff Mills the music was very Detroit, a little too technical and lacking soul, so we moved to the Terraza. I was devastated to have missed Ben Watt, but we caught the end of Paul Woolford, then Steve Lawler who really laid it down. A bit formulaic in the builds, but who cared??

The set was everything Ibiza is and should be - high energy and absolutely banging. Not a frown in the place. We only stayed a few hours as I really wanted to get in a real nights' sleep before Monday's debauchery, so as you can imagine, it was still packed and throbbing as we headed back to our apartment in Playa d'en Bossa.

Playa D'en Bossa and Monday in Ibiza
Monday I woke up nice and early to hit the bakery and sure that the troops had the proper sustenance for the day that awaited us.

Monday in Ibiza! As I told my partner in crime Gracie (an Ibiza virgin), Mondays truly never are the same once you have experienced how they celebrate the beginning of the week in the Balearic Isles...

We spent a couple hours at Playa d'en Bossa enjoying the sun, sand and warm water and caught the beginning of Bora Bora - the music starts pumping at 4:30 on the nose - before changing and heading out.

Circo Loco at DC-10
Circo Loco remains one of my favorite parties of all times. I can not explain how happy I am that we were able to make it in its few active weeks, especially considering they were just shut down (again, this time for a full year) before they had the opportunity to host their season closing party.

Subject to ongoing battles with the local municipality and arduous searches of partygoers by the guardia civil, DC10 has really borne the brunt of the recent movement to calm the island down, and contain the partying. New and strictly adhered to hours and a strong clamp on DC10 have definitely brought a cloud over the sunny, carefree atmosphere that typically characterizes Ibiza.

To be perfecly honest, there's no question why DC10 is such a target. A veritable carnival, the characters, music, debauchery and energy are well beyond the realm of a calm or controlled party environment. But hey, that's the attraction. Freewheeling costumed individuals closing out Monday's sunlight hours with airplanes roaring overhead and largely techno beats - is there really anywhere more removed from the reality of a Monday?!

Team Loco (we brought the team uniforms from 2006 back!) caught Timo Maas and Tania Vulcano on the terrace then headed inside to chill in the lounge area. The dark and dirty beats lured us to the dancefloor immediately. DC10 might be the only place I can accept sweating it out on a packed dark dancefloor to music that dark before the sun even sets. With a tear in my eye, knowing full well that I may never see DC10 open again, I tore myself away well before the party ended in order to avoid the crowds at Amnesia.

Cocoon Closing at Amnesia
A quick change and shower and we hit Cocoon's closing party at Amnesia, another mega club with the drink prices to show for it. Comprised of two massive rooms, it was packed to the roof.

Armed with our inflatable picture frames, I spent the night snapping portraits of the cast of characters dancing the night away, probably 100 portraits, all told! Sven Vath and Ricardo Villalobos absolutely destroyed and we eventually called it quits after almost 12 hours of dancing and stumbled into a cab sweaty, exhausted, and unable to take another step.

All in all, a truly fulfilling, tiring and perfect weekend escapade!

Stay tuned as I will be closing out October with trips to London, Berlin, Paris and Amsterdam!

Spanish Desert

2008-08-01T17:53:00.011+02:00

My first roadtrip in Spain!

I packed miss Lola up into the rental and hit the road, heading east towards Zaragoza.

About two hours later the terrain became mountainous and we veered north towards the quaint town of Tudela. As it was a holiday, the city was entirely deserted save for a few revelers, dressed in the traditional all white with a smart red bandana around their neck, scrambling towards the town's main square. I didn't stay long enough to watch the celebrations, but suffice it to say that no one left that square still donning a crisp white outfit.

From the stragglers back at the hotel later that evening one can only surmise a lot of festive toasting with red wine took place all afternoon and into the evening in honor of the festival. (Someone still needs to explain the buckets, however??).

I instead elected to head into the Bardenas Reales, the real reason I traversed one of the most desolate and boring bits of Spanish highway (though I can not deny being continually charmed by the black bull signs and windmills dotting the landscape as far as the eye can see!). Lured by its unique and quasi-desert landscape, I was intrigued to see the famed rock formations hidden in the barren and somewhat unwelcoming landscape.

Best experienced by bicycle or on foot, there are only a select number of roads a car can take to cut through the lunar landscape. Winding down into valleys, I was quite taken by the beautiful plateaus and breathtaking and massive naturally formed limestone sculptures that have been slowly carved by erosion over time.

The Hotel Aire de Bardenas, a relatively new addition to the landscape, serves as a fantastic and contemporary frame for its expansive surroundings. Featuring 20 some odd rooms, each boasts a beautiful and minimally designed feature - whether an outdoor tub, private garden, patio with seemingly unending vistas across the expanse, or bathrooms with open showers - from which to better appreciate and connect with the stark and impressive surroundings.

When meandering the peaceful stone paths between buildings, one has the opportunity to emjoy glimpses of masterfully framed views of the landscape, not to mention meet your neighbors, most of whom spend time lounging with doors open taking in as much of the surroundings as possible.

The restaurant frames views of a private allotment teeming with local vegetables, and during breakfast you can sip your coffee while watching the gardener contemplate what you will be able to delight in for your dinner.

While I sadly left my camera behind, my holga managed to capture a nice sense of the combination of arid silence and blinding sun that left me driving back to Madrid contemplating my brief trip through this singular and humbling slice of Spain's countryside.

photos ORGULLO MADRID

2008-07-13T16:30:00.002+02:00

Orgullo en Madrid

2008-07-13T02:26:00.017+02:00

Despite having attended gay pride parades in other cities, I could not have ever been prepared for the breadth, scope and energy surrounding the festivities for Gay Pride in Madrid.

While gay pride festivals and parades are never exclusively attended by any one segment of society, Madrid's event was far and away the most diverse and heavily attended I've had the opportunity to witness.

Gay couples in costume, straight men brandishing rainbow flags, children atop their parents' shoulders squirting transvestites and cross-dressers with water guns, and people fanning themselves with rainbow flags featuring everything from club advertisements to McDonald's logos made up a colorful and blurry pastiche of revelers throughout the parade.

To take a step back, I began to witness the beginnings of preparations on Tuesday night. Throughout Chueca, the traditionally gay center of Madrid, bars began building outdoor service areas, public employees began stringing rainbow flags across the streets, and stages were slowly erected in every plaza.

By Wednesday night, the party had begun. The streets were teeming with people drinking and building the anticipation for Saturday's parade for three nights in a row. Dancing, drinking, singing in the streets was prevalant for a full five days straight.

On the day of the parade, a friend and I went to my office to watch the beginning from the terrace. We then ran made our way to the street to join the party on Gran Via...where we found a good corner to be spectators for a bit.

Not long afterwards, the LOVE BALL bus came along. Led by a diva in a black thong, they were far and away playing the best music, so we hopped into the parade and danced all the way down Gran Via to techno for three hours.

After a quick shower and change, we hit the plazas. The streets were absolutely packed and almost impossible to maneuver, but after watching a tranny stageshow from my friend's balcony, we managed squeeze ourselves into a space in Chueca's main plaza and dance the night away in the heat of one of Madrid's most energetic summer nights...

photos LONDON

2008-07-02T12:54:00.000+02:00

48 Hours in London

2008-07-02T12:41:00.007+02:00

One last minute decision and a few Euros later, and I found myself boarding an EasyJet flight to London to reunite with friends from across the globe for a quick and intense weekend of art, architecture, and music.

Blessed with stunning weather, my partner in crime and I traversed several neighborhoods in London over the course of ten hours on Saturday.

For the first stop, I made my first ever visit to the Tate Modern, where I delighted in the massive scale of outdoor murals, enjoyed an exhibit dedicated to the history of urban street photography, determined that Cy Twombly drastically improved his art over the course of his career, and dramatically restrained myself from buying anything in the expansive and overstimulating design shop.

Afterwards we headed to the Hayward Gallery to see the Psycho Architecture exhibit. The installations all had a fresh, very personal and sometimes complicated take on architecture and what buildings and spaces represent. Many of the pieces played with the way that architecture shapes and is shaped by what we see, and, in the end, frames the way we think and experience space. Destruction and dismantling of the order normally associated with buildings was a current throughout, bringing a sense of chaos and provoking a new sensibility of structure.

My favorite was far and away Fallen Star 1/5, by Do ho Suh. It featured two meticulously detailed dollhouse structures, one representing his Korean home and the other his US home, crashing into one another, and the ensuing destruction and uncomfortable intermingling of the two cultures. Pictures will obviously not do it any justice, so I highly recommend a visit.

The roof of The Hayward featured several playful experiences. With a little patience (there were long lines) one could hop into a rowboat for a rooftop drift with impeccable views of London's skyline, lounge in an inflated geodesic dome, or relax in a beautifully crafted temporary rooftop theater and watch short films.

After a walk across the Thames and a quick spin around Covent Garden, we met up with a friend from Paris to rest our feet and enjoy an afternoon drink, sped through Soho, and headed home to rest our feet for a night of dancing at Fabric.

The highlight was Ricardo Villalobos' set - a DJ who I have not had the pleasure of experiencing live as he has a self-imposed boycott on playing in the United States.

A true master in the art of surprise, arcs, and builds, to merely say he has a sense of timing is a gross oversimplification. His long, drawn out and tantalizing builds toy with you and can sometimes be maddening until finally culminating - and always delivering.

His exactitude in working in his mids, kicks and bass keeps you thinking and alert for the duration of his set...waiting to see where he'll take it next, keeping you moving, and leaving you in a state where you constantly feel at the precipice of what's to come.

When you add the skillful layering of acoustical arrangements, sparse and sneaky vocal samples, guitar riffs, and jazz melodies, one can say that he has developed a fully rounded brand of techno that largely dismisses any and all criticisms of the genre with unarguable finesse.

A successful reunion with several friends from New York, a photo shoot with an inflatable picture frame, and six hours of dancing later, we hopped a car for a well-deserved night of sleep.

A million and one thanks goes out to Colleen for coordinating our sleeping arrangements and Emily Chang for graciously offering her flat to us and letting us enjoy life on a quaint residential street in Kensington Gardens for a very memorable weekend.

photos MAVI YOLCULUK

2008-06-20T16:26:00.000+02:00

photos ISTANBUL & CESME

2008-06-20T16:19:00.001+02:00

Turkish R&R

2008-06-20T01:46:00.020+02:00

Rest, Recover, Relax...vacation at last!

As I walked down the gangway to board my flight in early June I was actually on the verge of tears. I was so absolutely overwhelmed with the relief of true freedom, at the idea of enjoying my family and friends from afar and celebrating in the union of two very special people.

Over the course of the next week and a half I fulfilled all of my intentions to breath deep, be surrounded by love and happiness, and to enjoy life at its very simplest.

Istanbul welcomed me with open arms as usual. I gathered myself and started off with a day manicuring with my grandmother, lunching with my aunt and grandfather, and topped it off with a perfect reunion of friends and an evening filled with laughter and anticipation of the adventures to come.

The next morning we were off to Cesme.

Together with friends from Turkey, London, Israel and New York I spent three days exploring the quaint vacation town on Turkey's west coast. One of my favorite areas is Alicati, an energetic neighborhood filled with cafes, restaurants, and boutiques within graciously renovated and picturesque ancient stone homes, stables and structures. Very reminiscent of Santorini, Alicati has a slightly more organic and local feel, particularly as we were there early in the season and it was relatively free of tourists.

The wedding was held in the Cesme Castle, a broad and statuesque building perched on Cesme's waterfront. The ceremony and celebrations were beautiful and, as with any Turkish wedding, extremely festive. Americans mixing with belly dancers, and Turks doing the twist...the bride and groom managed to create a truly fantastic representation of their respective cultures all within a breathtaking setting.

The party moved on to Kum Beach, which had just opened its doors for business, and we danced the night away under the stars until, exhausted, we all collapsed into the bus and headed to the hotel to pack for our upcoming yacht adventure...

With a six hour bus ride to recover, the twenty-two seafaring adventurers arrived in Fethiye, another coastal vacation town further south. We were met by the crew of our amazingly well-appointed boats (AC, hot water, six bedrooms with private bathrooms, flatscreens and DVD players, full audio system...), unloaded our bags, took off our shoes and watches and turned off our cellphones, all of which we would entirely forget about for the ensuing week.

Known as the Mavi Yolculuk (Blue Voyage, namely because of the stunning and crystal clear blue waters of the Mediterranean) renting gullets and cruising the coast between small port towns and islands is a very typical Turkish vacation in the summer. Without a doubt one of the most relaxing and reflective trips I've ever taken, I am still reveling in the sense of freedom and tranquility that a weeklong boat voyage allows.

A typical day on the boat is spent swimming, sunning, eating, playing cards, exploring small towns and visiting ruins, snorkeling, kayaking, and eating again...with the most difficult decision every day being which bathing suit bottom to wear and whether or not it is time to cool off in the water.

One of my favorite days started at 5am. When the motors started running my roommate and I grabbed my blanket and hauled ourselves to the top deck to watch the sunrise as we pulled out of our evening spot. After dozing off in the sun, by 7am it was already so strong we had to go below deck before resurfacing to find ourselves in one of the most stunning destinations of the trip: Butterfly Valley.

The day was spent hiking the valley and discovering its waterfalls, snorkeling, exploring caves, and ended with a spectacular hike on the nearby St. Nicholas Island to watch the sunset.

After six days unwinding in a similar manner each day, we returned to Fethiye for a fresh seafood feast and ultimately made our way to the airport to return to Istanbul: full, rejuvenated, and already nostalgic.

photos DUBAIMUMBAISHANGHAI

2008-06-03T23:58:00.000+02:00

Three AI's and a Day in Delhi

2008-06-03T23:50:00.001+02:00

My latest professional adventures hurled me through a whirlwind of cities, cultures and experiences...all jam-packed into a week of tireless travel, meetings and explorations.

Dubai

Finally, I meet Dubai!
Again I find myself filled with expectations and piqued with interest. Dubai was a city filled with myth mystery and hype...and being able to wrap my head around this rapidly growing desert metropolis was both a pleasure and disappointment.

Cranes, cranes everywhere...the city is undoubtedly undergoing a massive boom. The amount of construction is beyond imagination and when combined with the vast, colorless landscape truly is surreal to take in. Full streets, neighborhoods and islands all from scratch. There is no denying the impressive scale of creation.

One highlight was a tour the Palm Jumeirah, the first of the acclaimed man made island communities, which is not yet open to the public. With little sense of arrival, all of a sudden we found ourselves surrounded by densely packed condos and townhouses, each with its own strip of beach...we traveled up the 'trunk' of the Palm until we reached Atlantis, an absolutely massive hotel complex with an impressive aquarium as the piece de resistance. The scale of this building is in keeping with the rest of development in Dubai...there is no sense of human scale or personal experiences, merely grandiose gestures that overwhelm and only sometimes impress.

In terms of business, everyone is in a rush to build. Bigger, better, faster, now. The amount of hotels already built is impressive and the thousands of planned developments is absolutely staggering. There is a huge sense of pride in what has been created and the precedents that are being set in Dubai but to me the greatest disappointment was the true lack of culture and history.

No matter how impressive growth is, development based purely on capitalistic endeavors will never resonate with me in the way that a city building itself in the name of preserving its unique qualities and characteristics can. Overall, I was quite taken with Dubai, but probably more as an intellectually challenging place to truly grasp than a place that I would want to visit, explore and enjoy in greater depth.

Mumbai

We arrived to an dark and hushed Mumbai airport...there was a power outage. Welcome back to India!

I took great pleasure in returning to Mumbai and experiencing it as something of a familiar city. After overcoming the massive barrage to the senses that I had in my first trip, I was able to discover new details and delight in new layers of the city that had been overpowered by the impact of my first visit.

Despite the absolute clamor that characterizes Mumbai, I was able to find slices of peaceful moments amidst the chaos...

Things I noticed, loved, soaked in and will always remember:

-the fantastic elegance of the way Indian women nod their heads 'yes'
-sunrise over the Gateway to India and watching the city rumble to life
-the ritual in every experience
-barefoot waiters dishing spoonful after spoonful of brightly colored pungent foods to the only foreign diners with a smile and a shy curiosity
-watching the dabbawalla's washing all of mumbai's laundry in open air
-weaving between rickshaws in heels laughing at the irony of my attire
-sipping cocktails on the official cricket greens and reveling in potency and nostalgia of the old world british influences

Delhi

With less than 24 hours to spend in Delhi, I managed to pack in a power meeting, a visit to three homes, a night on the town, and a rather intimidating thunderstorm.

After our morning meeting, I met up with a friend who invited me to join her for the afternoon. After boardrooms, hired cars, hotels and business meetings, I welcomed the chance to finally go to someone's home and enjoy a family experience.

We started at her aunt's in Gurgaon, a city just outside of Delhi that is rapidly rising from the dirt as a community centered around a strong core of technology and corporate campuses. I was immediately welcomed as one of the family and six of us curled up in the air conditioned bedroom where we joked, drank tea, and shared stories.

Afterwards we went to another home where the man of the house had prepared Indian street food, something of an indulgent guilty pleasure of his. I sampled every delicious dish and marveled at their complexities. My absolute favorite was what I coined 'Indian nachos' - Chat Papri. Delightfully crispy puris are smothered in fresh yogurt, decorated with red and green chutneys and sprinkled with corn and pomegranate. Delicious!

Finally we went to her beautiful home, grabbed her bathing suit and headed back to the hotel for a swim. Just as I dipped my toes, a fierce wind stuck. It had picked up all the dust of Delhi and tears were streaming down my face as I ran for shelter. The sudden ferocity of the storm and the big, fat drops of rain were quite impactful. Extrapolating on that short experience, I imagine monsoon season as a tempestuous time filled with the uncertainty of nature's power. Quite intimidating.

We dried off and were off to enjoy drinks and dinner at a lounge before hopping a 4am flight, all the while sharing exciting plans for life and plotting carefree roadtrips to the Indian countryside...

Shanghai

My first corporate job was as an intern at Skidmore, Owings & Merrill in Chicago. They had just completed the Jin Mao tower, which was at the time to me was not only a sign of the impending growth of Shanghai but also the awakening of China as a world power. From my first day on the job, I dreamed of visiting Shanghai and witnessing the birth of a new global city.

Almost ten years later, that dream was finally realized.

As I entered the elevator in the Jin Mao Tower to check into the hotel I had seen in slides, articles, company presentations and imagination, I was filled with anticipation of the breathless skyline and broad shoulders of urban Shanghai. To my utter disappointment, however, both smog and the rainy day never allowed me the full impact of that imagined scene.

We whisked off to explore the city immediately, as it was Sunday and we had the afternoon free. Shanghai, like any city, has its highlights as a visitor, but I was immediately struck by how necessary it would be to have a local guide to truly help me unearth all the city had to offer.

We wandered the French Legation and visited Xintiandi, a wonderfully charming collection of shikumen houses that have been restored and renovated into lovely cafes, shops and galleries. The mix of french colonial architecture with Asian influence is a true pleasure and the civility of all the complex and growing surrounding neighborhood has to offer was impressive. We ended the evening wandering the Bund, highly lauded as a fantastic destination due to the renovation and repurposing of the waterfront as an entertainment district.

Following a day of meetings on Monday, I desperately wanted to visit the Taiking Lu area and Bridge 8 to satisfy my art and culture curiosity. Those last few hours of our ceaseless travel were filled with fantastic discovery. Taiking Lu began with the renovation of a factory into studio spaces for artists and design business and has very organically grown with the opening of galleries and cafes. Very casual in nature and intimate in scale, a turn in one direction will pull you into a design shop filled with the latest books from around the world and a turn in the other will bring you face to face with a 70 year old man stirring his noodles in his kitchen, laundry drying overhead. We chatted with shopkeepers, stocked up on design magazines, bought art, and packed ourselves, canvases in our laps, into the car for the airport.

photos LONDON NEW YORK

2008-05-07T16:11:00.006+02:00

Union Jack & Stars and Stripes

2008-05-07T11:47:00.009+02:00

Aaaah, London and New York. The only two truly global cities in my mind.

I have recently had several heated discussions with friends, family and colleagues about what exactly defines a city as global. To me, I put aside any economic consideration and take the city at face value...some would classify my definition as a melting pot, but to me, a truly global city is filled with a mix of people, interests, arts, technologies and beyond. It harnesses all of those elements and develops into something of a global heartbeat...pulling in from myriad sources and influences, and pumping out the result just as strongly, thereby fueling the rest of the world.

Spending time in these cities certainly inspires the soul, awakens the spirit, and if nothing else, keeps you on your toes.

Union Jack

Following a harrowing week of coordination, the team from New York and Madrid finally met up in London to kick off an amazing project - activating the Master Plan for the repositioning of Covent Garden.

On the way to Covent Garden we stopped briefly at the British Museum to take in Foster's intervention...it was truly a stunning space to walk around. The interplay of classic architecture and the glass encasement as well as the striking light and shadows seem like an obvious solution, but to stand in the space does have a certain impact.

Afterwards we were off to tour the site and take in all of its charms and shortcomings. A truly special plaza, at the crossroads of many of London's most prominent neighborhoods and quite literally the center of London, Covent Garden has long been abandoned by Londoners as an asset to the city due to its lack of personality and tourist crowds. For those in New York, the closest analogy to compare it with would be South Street Seaport. You really need to have a reason to go as a local.

Our daunting task is to work with the team repositioning the area and to make an immediate impact on the perception and feel of the Covent Garden Area. We toured the city, popping into as many interesting new areas and concepts as possible, to discover what London is missing and what can bring Londoners back to this currently lackluster area.

After a great dinner at Gordon Ramsay's Maze and a kickoff meeting with the client the following day (details are hush hush for now, you'll just have to wait!) we were off to the airport to return to Madrid.

Stars and Stripes

A quick day passed, and I found myself headed stateside to reunite with my mischievous brethren in New York. After having spent two days in London, the density of the city and the pace of life were not too much of a shock to the system. In fact, I welcomed the fast! now! go there! see you then! way of life with open arms.

I spent my few days taking advantage of the Euro exchange rate with impeccable timing: shopping, dining at my favorite standbys, dancing with my favorite partners in crime, and visiting galleries and museums.

Highlights included Sharif Waked's Chic Point, a tongue in cheek 'fashion show' based on juxtaposing the Palistine-Israeli border check points with 'practical' fashion allowing individuals to expose themselves as necessary.

Lots of Things Like This, at the Apex Art gallery on Church street, which classified several witty and biting hand drawings ranging from Shel Silverstein to Dan Perjovschi into what I would have never previously considered a genre.

And the whimsical yet sometimes quite dark paintings and sculptures by Murakami at the Brooklyn Museum...a lovely way to round out the weekend.

Not to mention a good dose of house music by my favorite New York DJ amidst the lovely palette of my favorite New York personalities.

Stay tuned, as next week I transition from travel by alliteration to travel by verse...Dubai, Mumbai and Shanghai, prepare yourselves...Miss Chief is ready to soak it in!

photos MARRAKECH

2008-04-12T23:58:00.000+02:00

Miss Chief in Marrakech

2008-04-12T23:48:00.021+02:00

Madrid, Mumbai, now Marrakech...travel by alliteration it seems.

A trip to Morocco dovetails quite nicely after India. After having honed my pedestrian and bargaining skills between rickshaws and stalls in India, I slipped into the pace of life in the medina with relative ease.

Sun-soaked days filled with smoke, smells of simmering spices and swirling dust...there may be no finer place on earth to lose one's self than the medina in Marrakech.

Literally.

You will get lost. I promise.

Miss Chief's top three medina tips:

1 CARRY CHANGE

Once you get dirhams, change a few so that you have a pocket brimming with 1 dirham coins. Trust me, these will come in veeery handy whenever you need to pull out a map and are immediately swarmed by 12 children dying to show you the way. Change is also helpful in larger quantities for convincing vendors to allow you to take photos if you're not planning on buying anything from them.

2 LEARN FRENCH

Hone your bartering skills in French. English will only get you as low as an 80% markup, I'm quite convinced.

3 TAKE TURNS

As sketchy as it may seem, definitely take that turn. Yes, down that narrow passageway. Yes, past those men whose eyes are hungry for your tourist dollars. More likely than not you'll stumble into an entirely new market or square...but at the very least you'll come across a lovely lost little corner ripe for photos.

Jemaa al Fnaa

Upon arrival we dropped everything and followed our Riad host's map to the Jemaa al Fnaa, the major square in the medina. Very quickly we came to understand that his straight line was actually rather conceptual in nature as it turned out to include several sharp turns, leaving us only slightly convinced that we were on the right path. We ducked through darkened passageways with people closing up shop for the night, peered into dimly lit rooms teeming with ceramics and antiques and food, and slowly began to wrap our head around our new labyrinthine surroundings.

The Jemaa al Fnaa really is a fantastic place to start. Surrounded by stalls selling fresh orange juice and snail stew, men peddling holistic medicines and aphrodisiacs, and women pleading to give you a henna tattoo, the center is a massive scene to take in at once. Line after line of brightly lit dining establishments with open kitchens billowing smoke and strong wafts of fish, kebabs and lamb form a nerve center of activity. Off to the north is a square of barely visible but very animated performers, acrobats and storytellers, each surrounded by hundreds of rapt spectators.

Snake charmers, trained monkeys, fortune tellers, and mopeds zigzagging through self-prescribed routes bombarded whatever was left of my sensory intake as I wandered around, constantly refocusing my perspective from the larger spectacle to small rituals and exchanges, then pulling back and taking it all in again.

Needless to say, I slept quite well that evening.

photos INDIA

2008-02-16T20:50:00.001+01:00

Miss Chief in India

2008-02-16T19:39:00.028+01:00

I think everyone has some preconceived notions of what it is to visit India.

For me, some were confirmed, others were unfounded, and yet there was still plenty of room for surprise. Just like I like it!

Despite spending the majority of my time in air conditioned cars, hotels, offices and on construction sites, the trip really whet my appetite for a full blown return and in depth exploration of what I think may well be the most colorful and most textured place on earth.

Mumbai

Mumbai is a tremendous city that tugs, no...positively yanks at your senses. Within 24 hours there I absolutely fell in love with India. I am admittedly ashamed that due to the stigma I
had against traveling there (it would be difficult, dangerous, I’ll get sick, etc) I hadn’t made it much of a priority to visit until now.

With that now rectified, I must say, as many others probably have, that Mumbai is like no other place I’ve ever seen.

Miss Chief's Top 3 Mumbai surprises:

1 VISUAL

*Colorful handpainted graphics on every motorcycle rickshaw, taxi, and truck in sight (horn OK please!!)

*Vivid and rich colors at every turn between the kaleidoscopic and beautiful saris, flowers hanging in every doorway, and bright and vibrant jewelry

*The fantastic elegance of written and typed hindi and urdu

2 TRAFFIC

*The astounding talent of drivers and the feeling of being part of a choreographed dance when riding in the back of a car...deftly and gracefully weaving in and out between rickshaws, trucks, animals and pedestrians and coming within centimeters of everything

*Major roads with no lane demarkations and nothing more than a pile of rocks dividing opposing directions of traffic

*The ceaseless honking - never really out of anger and not as much to warn of danger, it's more like car sonar to know exactly how close everyone is to you. I thought Turks honked a lot but the Indians now hold the world record for honking.

3 POVERTY

*Slums and makeshift home-cum-businesses lining 80% of the streets, many of them backed directly against high end business, retail and residential areas. While the large discrepancy between rich and poor did not come as a surprise, the scale of it is still incomprehensible

*People sleeping in the streets but still talking on cellular phones, makeshift homes adorned with advertisements and logos for technology companies

The visual most burned into my memory was on a drive north to a meeting near Lake Powai. We drove through a one way, one and a half car dirt road flanked on both sides with slums…everyone had opened for business and brought their wares to the street…makeshift coffee shops and barbers, people eating breakfast and getting a shave, all within an arm’s reach of the car. A unique morning commute, to say the least.

Business in India aka "Leapfrogging"

The business side was equally as astounding. I visited amazing construction sites and recently built projects and met with people with extremely exciting visions for the future of India.

I believe that the next ten years will see development quite like China…obviously quite different given that India has a tendency to ‘leapfrog’ in its development. Saying that the infrastructure leaves something to be desired or can’t sustain real development is the understatement of the century.

To get a taste for the emphasis on development there, take a look at this commercial from the insane campaign, nothing short of a full blown 24-hour inundation via TV, billboard and print advertising, for the Emaar MGR IPO this month. All focused on the 'new Indian' demographic.

We met many recent MBA's, educated abroad, who have returned to India and are pushing for rapid development and the of importation of concepts they enjoy abroad. This generation of movers and shakers recognizes that there is an audience ready for concepts from boutique hotels to spas and hi tech residences to luxury experiences though any execution thus far, while not lacking in aspiration, is truly missing content.

One positive I found is that there remains a strong sense of Indian and local pride, and the incorporation of Indian customs, visuals, rituals and experiences is a must in my mind for the success of new ideas, something one does not see as much of in places like Dubai or China.

The haves, the have nots and the have have HAVES

The craziest project I visited was the residence for Mukesh Ambani, indisputably the richest man/family in India. Currently under construction is his private residence of 20+ stories. We went to the construction site and in the construction lift with all the workers and visited the impeccable temporary offices where they have NINETY architects working on this project, not to mention airconditioning and plumbing in the middle of what is essentially only concrete slabs.

A rendering of the project:

Delhi

Delhi was a completely different experience. The lack of Mumbai's density and grit, the big, leafy avenues, and a subway system made it feel a far cry from my first impressions of India.

After the shock of Mumbai, Delhi almost felt like Istanbul 15 years ago. Run down, but with European nuances. Traffic was still bad but a better highway system and marked and well paved roads created (at least the illusion of) a more organized infrastructure.

Leaving Delhi on a 325am flight was probably the most memorable experience there. There were at least 300 people in the immigration/security line, and with no real space for the line, so it snaked between check in desks, went outside, came back in again…babies, families, hippies, tourists and business people from around the world all lumped together in the most disorganized line in the history of lines at 1am. Quite a spectacle.

It seems that despite what the rest of us would consider third world conditions, India manages to sustain life, growth, and a vibrancy unmatched elsewhere. When I saw this tree growing on the second story of a long abandoned and hollowed out factory in the middle of Delhi, it made me think.

Perhaps, just as with this tree, it is India's strong roots that allow life to maintain its strength and to continue to defy conventions of how and when growth and progress occur.

Miss Chief in Mumbai / preface

2008-01-28T17:10:00.001+01:00

Two business class tickets, Madrid to Mumbai...€6000

Book, snack and tissues during layover...£10

Facing your boss for an 8hr flight to India...

...priceless

A Turkish Delight

2007-12-18T17:15:00.001+01:00

Istanbul, inspiring as always.

I can still smell the bazaar if I concentrate hard enough.

After some (albeit very little) arm twisting, I managed to convince my friend Shirley to come along for the ride. She joined me from Tel Aviv for 4 days and MY did we fill our time...

It was fantastic to be with family and friends for the first time in three months! Highlights included meeting Karel's new man, the most loveable Max, spending time with Shirley girl, and of course seeing my family - everyone from grandparents to cousins to their babies - and immensely enjoying their company and of course, the food.

Outside of people time, and with much thanks to Karel and Muriel for seeing to it, I did get around to seeing some new and exciting things Istanbul had to offer up...in the spirit of warming myself up for a blog on style, trends, and the new and exciting, I have reviewed them here.

Galata Moda

A temporary retail event showcasing Istanbul's best and brightest fashion designers. While I think the actual fashions available left a bit to be desired, the attendees were certainly fabulous. I found myself wanting to ask everyone where they got their clothes.

The event is set up around the old Galata Tower (built in 1300s) which is situated near the hip and happening Beyoğlu and Tünel districts in what was once a very Jewish neighborhood. My grandfather, in fact, spent much of his childhood nearby.

Several booths showcasing clothes, jewelry and other items were brightly lit and heavily visited...in the middle they set up a cafe and a radio station was broadcasting live. A very lively event that I think really showcased the young, fashionable set in an extremely favorable way.

Santral Istanbul

Afterwards, we hopped a taksi (no 'X' in Turkish, kids!) to a pretty abandoned area of town where they recently renovated an old electricity factory into an exhibition space. The furnaces, control room and large mechanical equipment have all been left in tact and are completely accessible to the public.

I went completely beserk in the control room. Aesthetically such an antique, yet modern and scientific space. As it was night, I didn't get great photographs, but Karel did do a little fashion shoot with me.

Much of the exhibition downstairs was oriented towards teaching children science, but that did not stop us from spending an hour playing with magnets, video cameras and listening to the 'rain' simulated by ball bearings.

It's a fantastic place, and I look forward to seeing it develop as a cultural center and public gathering space. Between the factory itself, the exhibits, the expansive surrounding outdoor space, the new Otto restaurant, and the adjacent university, the space has a lot of potential to shape future thoughts about what an art space should be.

Istinye Park

Generally speaking, this is another mega-mall, bringing a new home what few brands had not yet broken into Istanbul market yet (and of course all the regulars as well). Two distinct pieces that are unique to Istanbul shopping centers round it out nicely, however.

The first is the area on one far end that is dedicated to the high luxury brands. Above ground, these stores have an intimate cul-de-sac and street-level entrance, giving it a very Rodeo Drive feel. Each store also has a lower level, which coincides with the upper level of the mall, making them accessible in both environments.

On the other far end is the 'Istinye Bazaar' - an indoor marketplace styled after an oudoor market with stalls for fruits and vegetables, fish, a charcuterie, a butcher, a wine shop, etc. The environment is bustling as any outdoor market would be in Istanbul. One unique characteristic is the inclusion of a café/restaurant dedicated to each retailer. Patrons select their cut of meat or their fish, it is prepared on the spot, and they enjoy it literally within feet of the shop. A relatively new concept, it is refreshing to see the Turks taking to it so well...there was not an empty table in sight.

photos LOLA

2007-12-02T00:31:00.000+01:00

Karaoke!

2007-12-01T06:00:00.001+01:00

Determination: It's All Relative

2007-11-26T19:30:00.002+01:00

Albert Einstein once said, "You have to learn the rules of the game. And then you have to play better than anyone else."

After I reflected a bit on how they "play" here in Madrid, (see the waiting game described below) I have to say, I wasn't quite ready to surrender to the status quo, throw my hands in the air and toss in the towel, but I still wasn't quite prepared to fight.

That's when I came across this picture.

Tigers swim?!

Either this tiger is pretty damned determined or they do, in fact, fully submerge themselves in water. I have to say that I preferred the idea of a really determined cat, so I haven't bothered to look it up, but hazy recollections of 1980's nature shows leave me suspecting that tigers do actually like the water.

So, what if tigers do swim? In my opinion, that does seemingly flip the conventional knowledge regarding cats and water on its head. I like the idea of a tiger deciding one day, you know what, the last thing someone expects me to do is jump in the water. If I hop in there after that jackrabbit/fish/turtle and break every rule of this nature game, I'm seriously going to get ahead!

Now, I can't expect to break the rules of the game here that dramatically. Still, every time I look at that tiger's expression I see a mix of pure and fierce determination with a glint of satisfaction. Maybe I want to imagine it, but that cat looks pretty pleased with himself if you ask me.

It makes me think a bit. If I can't expect to play by the rules I'm accustomed to, I can certainly take what level of expectation, competitive edge and determination to succeed I have and use them to my advantage. It's like playing the game with an extra set of cards, only you have to be careful when you use them and actually, not really ever let anyone know you using them at all.

OK. I suppose that example is technically called cheating, but it's all relative, after all, isn't it?

Thanks Albert.

The Art of Waiting

2007-11-18T20:30:00.001+01:00

We waited a while for this post, didn't we?

Well, far be it from me to make excuses, but perhaps I have actually begun to integrate the foremost tenet of Madrileño culture? Waiting has taken on an entirely different scale, set of assumptions, and has really been evolved into a credo here...one I have dubbed the "Art of Waiting."

A moment from several years ago comes to mind. How clearly I remember struggling with the momentary loss of the pace of New York City life! I was standing at the back of a interminable line at a post office with the most apathetic woman attending to customers, and knew I was there for at least an hour. An hour devoid of any real progress, any movement...an hour stolen from my busy and, up until that point, well-scheduled day.

I stood there, contemplating what waiting really meant. I stood there, stunned, thinking that really my entire life would be spent waiting. Waiting for my next vacation, waiting for my lunch to arrive, waiting to use the restroom, and, of course (avoiding, if possible, the connotation of a late-night college-era realization on [insert substance here]... ) waiting to die. Even when I am not consciously waiting, I'm still waiting all right.

Acclimating to the pace of life in Spain has not only meant internalizing an entirely new schedule and set of expectations. To truly feel at home here means to take on an entirely different understanding of what it means to wait. Actually, the Art of Waiting, when perfected, really means you're not waiting at all. You've so absorbed the priority status quo that anything that takes time acts like a background operation. Waiting becomes a backdrop to the extent that you'll rarely see a tapping foot, hear a heaving sigh in a long line, or see anyone think twice about joining that long line.

I think there's something to be said of the fact that the word esperanza, hope, has its roots in the word to wait, or esperar.

As for me, I can only hope that I learn how to wait as well as that.

MADRID makes the TOP 10!

2007-11-06T18:26:00.001+01:00

Monocle names Madrid #10 most livable city in the world!

Culturally, Madrid was long regarded as stuffy compared to hip Barcelona. But it has undergone a renaissance....

Read More

MISS CHIEF on FACEBOOK

2007-11-05T15:10:00.002+01:00

Well, I've gone and done it...Friendster, MySpace, LinkedIn, and now Facebook.

Another one bites the Facebook dust!

I've been quiet lately between working and fervently working on the launch of próxi...stay tuned!

IKEA delirium aka CASA DE CAJAS

2007-11-02T09:58:00.001+01:00

I have not only constructed enough furniture for a 99% functional 2-br apartment in a day, but also managed to recycle my waste and build a small ecologically sound home for any small persons who wish to inhabit it!

This cozy one bedroom house features a wood burning fire-place (see chimney), avant garde staircase, and grand entryway door and nearby plastic boulder to create a true sense of arrival.

Now, had my hands not been in their current state of perma-grip (caused by assembling an ungodly amount of furniture via screwdriver, hammer and allen key) I believe a full city could have been constructed from the cardboard.

EXHIBIT A

2007-10-31T16:54:00.001+01:00

MOVING DAY, part two

2007-10-31T16:52:00.001+01:00

Did I mention that my street is under construction?

Ah, moving day...standing on the corner after unloading my bags while half of Madrid traffic waits behind us...for once I say thank god we're not in New York!

I'd like to direct your attention to exhibit A...my life in the street.

MOVING DAY!

2007-10-31T09:08:00.001+01:00

Stay tuned...

MONTH ONE in MADRID

2007-10-28T23:18:00.002+01:00

All told, it's been quite a month of adjustments and LISTS.

I've been listing, crossing off, adding, checking boxes, clearing, rewriting and starting fresh lists for two months now. What to pack, what offices to visit, who to call, email and write, where to get fingerprinted, who to get money orders for, where to apostille documents, what to send myself in boxes, what services to cancel...the lists never end.

In that spirit, and after one month meandering the streets of Madrid, I list for you:

What I've learned...

* madrileños are VERY busy not being busy
* the siesta is not a myth, and contrary to rumors, is not going anywhere
* three-course lunches when eating with colleagues: not optional
* there are about 16 ways to ask if your dog is a boy or a girl, and everyone asks
* there is an unhealthy obsession with pipas (sunflower seeds) on sundays throughout the latina district
* with minor exceptions, don't expect to find groceries after 2pm on saturday until monday
* every call on a mobile phone had better be worth it, especially if you want to be able to afford food
* everybody is an aunt or uncle, rather, you refer to them as one
* spanish transvestites have rather commercial taste in music
* not having your residency in order makes you a liability and a pain
* stilettos and cobblestones don't mix so well but my shoe guy is a miracle worker so we keep trying
* yes, we really eat dinner at 11pm

Who I've met...

* three bartenders/waiters and one owner of a jordanian restaurant
* 40 people who work at leo burnett madrid
* one argentinian whose apartment i'm moving into
* two americans from the san juans living in sydney and travelling
* one madrileno who likes techno
* one techno dj and his girlfriend
* one party promoter, and
* 9 colleagues - one argentinian, one peruvian, and seven spaniards

Looking towards next month, I finally move into my place this week

What I will need...

* a dining room table and chairs so i can convince people to be my new friends by bribing them with turkish dinners
* a few lamps so i can see them when they come
* things to cook with, eat with, drink out of, and unfortunately clean up afterwards
* a coffee table so i can finally put my feet up
* a closet for the ungodly amount of clothes that should arrive in two weeks
* a futon so that people actually come visit me
* bedside tables for easily accessible hangover relief in the mornings
* clothespins, as my clothes will never be soft or warm from a dryer ever again
* a massive pile of large pillows to fill the other half of my cavernous living room
* art, so i can stay inspired

What I intend to fill the massive empty suitcase I will bring home with me...

* q-tips; they just haven't got a clue here
* emergen-C
* burt's beeswax
* myriad items from my kitchen and bathroom that i had deemed replaceable and now regret leaving
* one kimono
* one 80's prom dress
* one box stylist pens
* one whiteboard and corresponding markers
* artwork
* hopefully a couple of stowaway friends

Casa de Miss Chief will be open for business shortly, my dears! Start booking!

MISS CHIEF es el QUESO

2007-10-28T05:39:00.002+01:00

Someone called me 'La Puta Queso' tonight...

Apparently being the fucking cheese is a good thing here.

SUNSET from the OFFICE

2007-10-25T23:27:00.001+02:00

mobile posting? madrileños beware!

MISS CHIEF in MADRID LAUNCHES

2007-10-09T12:43:00.001+02:00

stay tuned for pictures, news and adventures from Spain!