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Orgullo en Madrid

Despite having attended gay pride parades in other cities, I could not have ever been prepared for the breadth, scope and energy surrounding the festivities for Gay Pride in Madrid.






















While gay pride festivals and parades are never exclusively attended by any one segment of society, Madrid's event was far and away the most diverse and heavily attended I've had the opportunity to witness.

Gay couples in costume, straight men brandishing rainbow flags, children atop their parents' shoulders squirting transvestites and cross-dressers with water guns, and people fanning themselves with rainbow flags featuring everything from club advertisements to McDonald's logos made up a colorful and blurry pastiche of revelers throughout the parade.

To take a step back, I began to witness the beginnings of preparations on Tuesday night. Throughout Chueca, the traditionally gay center of Madrid, bars began building outdoor service areas, public employees began stringing rainbow flags across the streets, and stages were slowly erected in every plaza.




























By Wednesday night, the party had begun. The streets were teeming with people drinking and building the anticipation for Saturday's parade for three nights in a row. Dancing, drinking, singing in the streets was prevalant for a full five days straight.




























On the day of the parade, a friend and I went to my office to watch the beginning from the terrace. We then ran made our way to the street to join the party on Gran Via...where we found a good corner to be spectators for a bit.



















































Not long afterwards, the LOVE BALL bus came along. Led by a diva in a black thong, they were far and away playing the best music, so we hopped into the parade and danced all the way down Gran Via to techno for three hours.



























































After a quick shower and change, we hit the plazas. The streets were absolutely packed and almost impossible to maneuver, but after watching a tranny stageshow from my friend's balcony, we managed squeeze ourselves into a space in Chueca's main plaza and dance the night away in the heat of one of Madrid's most energetic summer nights...




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photos LONDON



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48 Hours in London

One last minute decision and a few Euros later, and I found myself boarding an EasyJet flight to London to reunite with friends from across the globe for a quick and intense weekend of art, architecture, and music.

Blessed with stunning weather, my partner in crime and I traversed several neighborhoods in London over the course of ten hours on Saturday.






















For the first stop, I made my first ever visit to the Tate Modern, where I delighted in the massive scale of outdoor murals, enjoyed an exhibit dedicated to the history of urban street photography, determined that Cy Twombly drastically improved his art over the course of his career, and dramatically restrained myself from buying anything in the expansive and overstimulating design shop.















Afterwards we headed to the Hayward Gallery to see the Psycho Architecture exhibit. The installations all had a fresh, very personal and sometimes complicated take on architecture and what buildings and spaces represent. Many of the pieces played with the way that architecture shapes and is shaped by what we see, and, in the end, frames the way we think and experience space. Destruction and dismantling of the order normally associated with buildings was a current throughout, bringing a sense of chaos and provoking a new sensibility of structure.
































My favorite was far and away Fallen Star 1/5, by Do ho Suh. It featured two meticulously detailed dollhouse structures, one representing his Korean home and the other his US home, crashing into one another, and the ensuing destruction and uncomfortable intermingling of the two cultures. Pictures will obviously not do it any justice, so I highly recommend a visit.





































The roof of The Hayward featured several playful experiences. With a little patience (there were long lines) one could hop into a rowboat for a rooftop drift with impeccable views of London's skyline, lounge in an inflated geodesic dome, or relax in a beautifully crafted temporary rooftop theater and watch short films.

After a walk across the Thames and a quick spin around Covent Garden, we met up with a friend from Paris to rest our feet and enjoy an afternoon drink, sped through Soho, and headed home to rest our feet for a night of dancing at Fabric.








The highlight was Ricardo Villalobos' set - a DJ who I have not had the pleasure of experiencing live as he has a self-imposed boycott on playing in the United States.

A true master in the art of surprise, arcs, and builds, to merely say he has a sense of timing is a gross oversimplification. His long, drawn out and tantalizing builds toy with you and can sometimes be maddening until finally culminating - and always delivering.

His exactitude in working in his mids, kicks and bass keeps you thinking and alert for the duration of his set...waiting to see where he'll take it next, keeping you moving, and leaving you in a state where you constantly feel at the precipice of what's to come.

When you add the skillful layering of acoustical arrangements, sparse and sneaky vocal samples, guitar riffs, and jazz melodies, one can say that he has developed a fully rounded brand of techno that largely dismisses any and all criticisms of the genre with unarguable finesse.

A successful reunion with several friends from New York, a photo shoot with an inflatable picture frame, and six hours of dancing later, we hopped a car for a well-deserved night of sleep.


















A million and one thanks goes out to Colleen for coordinating our sleeping arrangements and Emily Chang for graciously offering her flat to us and letting us enjoy life on a quaint residential street in Kensington Gardens for a very memorable weekend.

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photos MAVI YOLCULUK



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photos ISTANBUL & CESME



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Turkish R&R

Rest, Recover, Relax...vacation at last!

As I walked down the gangway to board my flight in early June I was actually on the verge of tears. I was so absolutely overwhelmed with the relief of true freedom, at the idea of enjoying my family and friends from afar and celebrating in the union of two very special people.

Over the course of the next week and a half I fulfilled all of my intentions to breath deep, be surrounded by love and happiness, and to enjoy life at its very simplest.


Istanbul welcomed me with open arms as usual. I gathered myself and started off with a day manicuring with my grandmother, lunching with my aunt and grandfather, and topped it off with a perfect reunion of friends and an evening filled with laughter and anticipation of the adventures to come.

The next morning we were off to Cesme.





















Together with friends from Turkey, London, Israel and New York I spent three days exploring the quaint vacation town on Turkey's west coast. One of my favorite areas is Alicati, an energetic neighborhood filled with cafes, restaurants, and boutiques within graciously renovated and picturesque ancient stone homes, stables and structures. Very reminiscent of Santorini, Alicati has a slightly more organic and local feel, particularly as we were there early in the season and it was relatively free of tourists.

















The wedding was held in the Cesme Castle, a broad and statuesque building perched on Cesme's waterfront. The ceremony and celebrations were beautiful and, as with any Turkish wedding, extremely festive. Americans mixing with belly dancers, and Turks doing the twist...the bride and groom managed to create a truly fantastic representation of their respective cultures all within a breathtaking setting.






















The party moved on to Kum Beach, which had just opened its doors for business, and we danced the night away under the stars until, exhausted, we all collapsed into the bus and headed to the hotel to pack for our upcoming yacht adventure...















With a six hour bus ride to recover, the twenty-two seafaring adventurers arrived in Fethiye, another coastal vacation town further south. We were met by the crew of our amazingly well-appointed boats (AC, hot water, six bedrooms with private bathrooms, flatscreens and DVD players, full audio system...), unloaded our bags, took off our shoes and watches and turned off our cellphones, all of which we would entirely forget about for the ensuing week.















Known as the Mavi Yolculuk (Blue Voyage, namely because of the stunning and crystal clear blue waters of the Mediterranean) renting gullets and cruising the coast between small port towns and islands is a very typical Turkish vacation in the summer. Without a doubt one of the most relaxing and reflective trips I've ever taken, I am still reveling in the sense of freedom and tranquility that a weeklong boat voyage allows.




















































A typical day on the boat is spent swimming, sunning, eating, playing cards, exploring small towns and visiting ruins, snorkeling, kayaking, and eating again...with the most difficult decision every day being which bathing suit bottom to wear and whether or not it is time to cool off in the water.






















One of my favorite days started at 5am. When the motors started running my roommate and I grabbed my blanket and hauled ourselves to the top deck to watch the sunrise as we pulled out of our evening spot. After dozing off in the sun, by 7am it was already so strong we had to go below deck before resurfacing to find ourselves in one of the most stunning destinations of the trip: Butterfly Valley.






















The day was spent hiking the valley and discovering its waterfalls, snorkeling, exploring caves, and ended with a spectacular hike on the nearby St. Nicholas Island to watch the sunset.

















After six days unwinding in a similar manner each day, we returned to Fethiye for a fresh seafood feast and ultimately made our way to the airport to return to Istanbul: full, rejuvenated, and already nostalgic.

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photos DUBAIMUMBAISHANGHAI



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